Disclaimer: This blog post is referring to travels in August 2017.
Kuta beach, Bali (3 nights) >> Tegallalang (2 nights) >> Ubud (2 nights) >> Kuta, Lombok (4 nights) >> Gili Trawangan (5 nights) >> Canggu, Bali (2 nights) >> Nusa Dua (3 nights)
Bali, Lombok and the Gili Islands.
For the Indonesian part of our trip, we visited Bali, Lombok and the Gili Islands. We’d wanted to go to Java to visit Mount Bromo and Komodo Island but time and money were both running out.
We visited Bali at the start and end of our trip to Indonesia, but for this blog post we’ll bung all the Bali destinations together.
As you can see we barely scratched the surface of Bali. We tended to stay in the tourist spots which meant it was easy to get between them via buses.
Our first stop was Kuta. It hasn’t got the best reputation but we wanted somewhere close to the airport on a small budget. Despite it being touristy (and busy), it meant there were lots of shops and restaurants. We enjoyed doing random things like going to the cinema and Jonny was delighted to find an English roast dinner one evening.
A happy Jonny with his roast dinner. Smoothie bowls here were also very tasty for breakfast.
We stayed at Ubud Sawah Homestay which was actually not in Ubud centre but a small village close to the rice terraces. It was a good base for white-water rafting too!
Coffee tasting in incredible surroundings. We also tried the most expensive coffee in the world made from Civet poo! 🙊💩
The Tegalalang rice terraces, which were pretty spectacular. This is a big tourist spot however.
If you’re going to Bali, it would be hard not to stay at Ubud at some point during your trip. It acts as a great hub for a number of activities and is packed with restaurants, Yoga classes and fresh & organic foods.
We enjoyed relaxing by the pool at Raka & Rai bungalow (cheap private room with a lovely breakfast). We loved Kafe in Ubud for the fresh meals!
Whilst in Ubud we walked some of the Campuhan Ridge Walk which escapes the crowds and has nice views over Bali.
Walking the Campuhan Ridge from Ubud.
There is a forest in Ubud which is home to lots of monkeys within walking distance.
Monkey forest in Ubud.
From Ubud, we decided to take an early morning trip to climb Mount Batur, which is an active volcano in Bali. We set off at 4am to reach the peak for sunrise. Sadly the clouds only broke for one brief moment revealing a glimmer of sunshine and views. The hike up itself wasn’t so bad, it’s 1717m high. It did get tougher towards the top however as it was mainly sand which meant for every step forward you slipped 3 back. You could also see steam and hardened volcanic ash during the climb which was really cool!
Climbing Mount Batur, an active volcano 1,717m high.
A glimpse of sunrise from the summit.
The next place in Bali we stayed at was Canggu which is near Echo beach. Here the sand is black and it was very popular with surfers. The town had a chilled out vibe, and we even went to a local farmers market during a weekend morning.
Canggu near Echo Beach.
Our last beach stop was at Nusa Dua. We stayed in a nice hostel and rented sun beds from a hotel on the beach. We pretty much took most of this time to relax on the beach, with the occasional sing-song to the locals with Jonny and his ukulele.
The golden sands of Nusa Dua. We stayed at aptly named “Cheap Hotel”.
To get to Lombok you have to get a ferry, and from Bali there is a fast and slow boat. Unfortunately, the seas were rough which meant only the slow boat was running. It felt really slow and cramped, so slow that I read all of Orwell’s 1984 during the boat ride.
We stayed in Kuta in Lombok.
Once we finally arrived, we stayed at Kuta beach (a far cry from from Kuta in Bali). The beach itself had spots which were barely populated but absolutely stunning. This is definitely going to become popular in a few years time! We walked most of the beach, down the main end it’s a good place to learn to kite-surf.
Kuta beach in Lombok. Barely anyone around!
The best thing about our walk along this beach was when we walked to the end and a litter of puppies came to say hello and then promptly fell asleep on me. This moment deserves a single photo collage.
One happy Senorita 🐶🐶🐶
Our accommodation was a cross between a homestay and a hostel called Join Homestay. There was a cat who befriended us and sat on our porch daily and chickens running freely around the garden. I went on a run one morning and got completely lost as paths merged into people’s back gardens. Everything was very open here which gave us the sense you could trust people.
There was a great viewpoint we went to on bikes and a nice yoga retreat called Ashtari cafe for dinner to watch the sunset.
We took a bike to Merese Hill viewpoint (the local kids loved the bike). The views were worth the trip! Recommend Ashtari cafe for dinner (also a Yoga retreat).
Next, we got a boat over to the Gili islands.
The Gili islands were probably my favourite part of Indonesia. Being a total beach bum, and loving snorkelling and diving, the Gilis were perfect.
The three Gili Islands off the coast Lombok.
We stayed on the busier island of Gili Trawangan or Gili T as it is affectionately named. This is the biggest of the three islands and it has no cars or motorbikes which can be a welcome relief from Bali (where you have to be on guard for motorbikes all the time). There are also no dogs on the islands, only cats.
Pituq cafe became one of our favourite lunch and breakfast spots serving delicious smoothie bowls and veggie wraps.
We wasted no time on arrival to Gili T by getting our swimwear on and diving straight into the sea. The snorkelling was excellent with very good visibility. I saw a turtle and a school of squid on our first swim! We took one scuba dive during our stay and saw reef tip sharks along with countless turtles.
To get around the island we hired bicycles (less than £2.50 per day) and cycled around the island stopping along the way. There were some great restaurants and bars on the west side to watch the sunset.
Gili T – what an incredible island. This place is popular for a reason!
We spent two days visiting the other two islands: Gili Air and Gili Meno. There was a public ferry twice a day operating between the islands that cost £1.50-£2 each way.
Gili Air was a little quieter than Gili T with great snorkelling and a great chilled vibe. We spent the day lounging around before walking around the island.
Gili Meno was the most remote island but had the best snorkelling in our opinion because we saw three turtles, two octopus, starfish and lots of beautiful fish. The downside was there was less choice of restaurants. As you walked more around the island you could find beautiful isolated beaches but you’d want to bring food and drinks with you as there were no shops and restaurants in some parts of the island.
The incredible beach of Gili Meno. Beautiful white sandy beaches and perfectly clear waters- a picture perfect postcard of paradise.
Disclaimer: This blog post is referring to travels in July 2017.
Singapore (2 nights)
It felt like we were in Singapore much longer than we actually were. We really liked how walkable the city was which meant we could cram quite a lot in. Although it is more expensive, we actually managed to stay close to our backpacker budget by making the most of the free activities on offer and eating street food.
After travelling from Melaka in the morning, we had 1.5 days to explore before our flight to Bali. We stayed near Bugis Junction (a shopping centre) in a small backpacker guesthouse because it was the cheapest place we could find. It actually turned out to be a great location because we were within walking distance of most the things we wanted to see. The restaurant below the Guesthouse called Seng Huat Coffee House had great food, in fact there was often a queue down the street!
On our first evening we wandered down to the Gardens by the Bay to enjoy the light show which occurs most evenings. It is accompanied by music (this time it was musical theme). It looked very pretty.
Afterwards, we went to Boat Quay for drinks with Oonagh, a friend from Worthing now living in Singapore. Boat Quay – a popular outdoor eating/drinking spot, particularly with expats.
The next day, we were up early to explore but the heavens opened so we had to wait it out a while and decided to look at the free shark exhibition at Park House.
Once the rain had eased off, we wandered through the colourful houses and little shops on Haji Lane and Arab St.
Next on the list was Little India with the most colourful buildings. Mustafas, a department store, felt more of a bizarre with absolutely anything and everything inside from gadgets & gizmos to body lotions and potions. Not to mention every type of biscuit and chocolate you could want – it’s worth a peek inside.
The free light show at Marina Bay.
Our flight to Bali was at 5am the next morning, which meant we had to leave for the airport at 2am. Having been busy sightseeing, we’d not booked any accommodation for Bali so it was a bit of a last minute scramble and very little sleep!
Disclaimer: This blog post is referring to travels in July 2017.
George Town, Penang (4 nights) >> Kuala Lumpur (3 nights) >> Melaka (1 night)
It was a brief visit to Malaysia but we enjoyed every minute. After the night train from Thailand, we made our way to George Town.
George Town, Penang
A UNESCO heritage Town in Penang, George Town was such a good spot for travellers. The town itself is very walkable, making it ideal for those on a budget. We didn’t have much time to do our research before we arrived but just by wandering around we stumbled upon beautiful old Chinese architecture, endless cafes and incredible street art. This is a hipsters playground.
The Cat Cafe in George Town.
For something different, we visited the Tech Dome which had a laser maze, climbing wall and a vertical free fall drop.
Josh did so well on the climbing wall, Jonny needed some attention in the laser maze.
Food wise, the night hawker stalls were a good option with freshly made satay chicken skewers.
May I present to you Satay Chicken 😋
On our last day in George Town, we strolled through the free Botanical Gardens. The monkeys picked on unsuspecting tourists planning to eat in the gardens- not cool if you were said tourist but otherwise providing further free entertainment for us. Note: do not bring food into the Botanical Gardens.
The free botanical gardens near George Town, Penang.
Chew Jetty should probably get a shout out because it is entirely built upon handmade stilts, literally buckets of concrete. It reminded me of a smaller and much more authentic Pier 39 in San Francisco with all the little shops and stalls.
Exploring Chew Jetty. We decided to mark the occasion with henna tattoos.
We caught a bus to Kuala Lumpur and stayed near Central Market which had lots of shops and stalls (great for buying souvenirs/gifts) and food places.
On the outskirts of Kuala Lumpar was Batu Caves. They were easy to get to as they were situated at the end of the metro line, but remember to save all your energy for the steps!
Batu Caves near Kuala Lumpur.
We visited the Petronas Towers at dusk to watch the transition from day to night when the towers light up. Then it was time for our last supper with Joshua before he sadly departed back to the UK.
The mighty high Petronas towers in KL.
We took the morning bus to Melaka so we had all afternoon to explore. Melaka is another UNESCO world heritage site in Malaysia due to beautiul old architecture. We really enjoyed this town; the quaint streets, boat ride down the river, the red square and street art made it a great place for an afternoon visit.
The colourful town of Melaka.
We ate at two really yummy places: Kocik Kitchen and Calanthe Art Cafe. I had a Laksa curry at both I loved the dish so much- a lovely coconut based soup with noodles. I had both a prawn and chicken one and both were great.
From Melaka, we took a 4-hour bus ride to Singapore.
Bangkok >> Krabi >> Ko Phi-Phi Don >> Khanom >> Ko Tao >> Ko Phangan
Brits get a 30-day visa exemption for Thailand which makes it a popular destination for holiday makers, gap-year students and travellers. Not to mention the cost of living is low, the weather is great almost all year round and Thailand hosts some of the best beaches in the world. So it’s no surprise that it can feel like half of Blighty are there with you. Safe to say we were a little apprehensive about visiting Thailand.
However, contrary to our initial apprehension we were left wanting more! As a self-confessed beach bum, the majority of our time was spent island-hopping in South Thailand. And boy, is there a lot of islands – some completely deserted. Even the secret paradise beach that Leonardo Dicaprio found in the film ‘The Beach’ can be located in South Thailand – though that beach admittedly is quite touristy now.
Here is a taster of what Thailand has to offer and that’s before even mentioning the food…
One month of travel distilled into nine photos. Tricky.
I couldn’t produce the usual Google map route because we visited islands in Thailand, so instead you have this amateur markup.
A) Bangkok – 6 nights (over two trips)
B) Krabi – 4 nights in Ao Nang and 1 night in Krabi Town
C) Phi-Phi island – 2 nights
D) Khanom – 5 nights
E) Ko Tao – 9 nights
F) Ko Phangan – 5 nights
Plus 1 night on the overnight train to get to the Thai/Malaysian border.
The Thai food had to be one of the cuisines we were looking forward to the most and on the whole it didn’t disappoint but watch the chili- it blew India out the water.
Thai food was very tasty as long as it was of a ‘Farang’ or foreigner spice level! Our favourites were the classic Green Thai curry, Massaman curry, Pad Thai and Mango sticky rice for dessert.
We actually went to Bangkok twice; the first time after India and the second time after Vietnam. On our first trip to Bangkok we visited the Grand Palace and Wat Pho.
Modelling the staple Thailand attire at Wat Phra Kraew and Wat Pho temples. Have you ever seen so much gold?
We stayed close to the notorious Khao San Road, a road famous (or infamous) for its bars and restaurants serving alcohol by the bucket. It was really fun, except for the fact I was still recovering from food poisoning in India so we didn’t hit the parties full force.
Khao San Road antics.
The second trip to Bangkok made up for that though with a lot of socialising and catching up with old friends.
Catching up with some old friends in Bangkok.
We checked out some of the humongous shopping centres complete with car showrooms and full gymnasiums. We also shamelessly went to Tesco Lotus just because it was like home. Terminal 21 was particularly cool with each level represented by a different country, at the top was San Francisco with delicious food court.
The Golden Gate Bridge… in a shopping mall.
We’d heard only good things about Krabi from other travellers so we decided to make this our next stop. Flights were really cheap too costing about £20 each. The main attraction of staying in Krabi is for island-hopping, aside from the bar crawls. It’s quite a big place and there are numerous places to stay- we chose Ao Nang which sounded like it would be lively and have lot of options for island-hopping.
June maybe wasn’t the best time of year for a visit because it was monsoon season. During our time in Krabi, I’d say 70 percent of the time it was overcast and 50 percent it just rained. A Thai massage became a great rainy day activity!
Singing in the rain.
Luckily, we did manage to get some breaks from the monsoon and enjoyed island hopping to Chicken Island (named after it’s shape) and Tup Island which connect by a sand bar at low tide.
The first deserted islands we visited via longboat. Pretty darn beautiful aren’t they?
We also went to Railay beach which you can only reach by boat. It had a beautiful cove (and monkeys!) and was popular with rock climbers. There were also nearby caves, one weird cave with penises in and one fairly normal cave (called Diamond Cave).
Railay beach and some strange caves.
Ko Phi-Phi Don
Ko Phi-Phi Don or Phi-Phi island was our next destination. Interesting fact, ‘Ko’ means ‘island’ in Thai.
We stayed for just two nights on the party island but managed to squeeze in a lot. The first afternoon, we got our bearings, stroked one hundred cats and lazed away on the beach with Chang beer and Jonny playing Ukelele.
Trippy snapchat filter.
The island-hopping boat trip from Phi-Phi was a full day stopping at the stunning Bamboo island, monkey beach, a gorgeous turquoise pool of water surrounded by rocks and Maya bay – famous because it was where the ‘The Beach’ was filmed. Getting to Maya bay was pretty funny as the water was too shallow for the boat to anchor so instead we had to rock climb and use a net to clamber up to gain access. We could then do the classic run through the palm trees, like Leonardo, to reveal the bay. Though it had got a little cloudy so it wasn’t quite the same beach.
Being like Leo and finding not-so-secret beaches (anymore) for the day.
Phi-Phi island although beautiful, did have a dark side: alcohol buckets at silly prices (£3.50 for a bucket of G&T), UV paint, beach and pool parties and even a bar with a boxing ring in the middle. As you can see in the photos below, we naturally stayed away from all this nonsense. This was also the night I lost my Thailand 7/11 toastie virginity – a staple most gap year students will mention.
Damn that toastie was worth it.
This place was our retreat. A non-touristy town compared to the rest of the places we visited, with a beautiful stretch of white sandy beach.
Barely a soul around.
It is also home to pink albino dolphins and we were lucky enough to see two on a trip organised by our host.
Great 2 second capture by Mr Mansell of the speckled pink Dolphins.
We stayed at a really homely Homestay called Happy Resort and had a small bungalow all to ourselves with a kitchen so we could even make our own food- it was so nice to have cereal in the morning!
Our little bungalow complete with dog and hammock free of charge (and husband…just kidding).
Other highlights of our stay in Khanom were Hin Lat and Samet Chun waterfalls, the night market and Khanom Seafood restaurant which had an endless list of fresh seafood cooked in your preferred style. Scooters and motorbikes we £3 to rent all day so we took one each to get around.
Waterfalls, biking, hiking and eating- what else could you want?! Actually I could answer that, better roads would have been nice!
We made Ko Tao mainly a diving trip, planning to do our Advanced Open Water PADI certification. The diving (and snorkelling) was incredible seeing so much underwater life including turtles, rays, barracudas, groupers, parrot and bat fish and more. Sadly, we didn’t get to spot a Whale Shark which frequent the water around this area.
How to even begin to capture the diving and snorkelling to be had in Thailand.
We also went to Yuan Island which was gorgeous. The beaches and snorkelling around Ko Tao were great as well including Tanote Bay, Shark Bay, Freedom Beach and Mango Bay stopping at another view point.
Exploring Koh Tao on our non-diving days.
The home of the Full Moon Party! There wasn’t actually a full moon when we went but a half moon so instead we got tickets to the Half Moon party in the middle of the jungle! Josh, our third wheel, who had nothing better to do joyfully came out to meet us in Thailand. We had a lot of fun catching up and nursing his hangover the next day.
Half moon spectacular.
Besides partying, we enjoyed some of the beaches and waterfalls on the island.
Koh Phangan away from the parties.
Then it was onwards and upwards to Malaysia! The journey involved a boat, a long drive, one overnight train journey and a second train once we crossed the Malaysian border. It was long but actually didn’t feel too bad, the sleeper train had beds with curtains and all the transport ran very smoothly.
Ho Chi Minh City >> Hoi An >> Hue >> Hanoi >> Halong Bay
DAYUM, Vietnam was really good. I was excited to visit before we crossed the Cambodian border, then I had a bowl of pho from a street vendor who warmed my insides. Vietnam continued to warm my insides until we left 15 days later.
Get in ma belleh.
We were granted 15 days entry to ‘Nam without a visa as a UK citizen. In fact being a UK citizen in ‘Nam was great, I don’t think our empire did anything embarrassing over the years to mean we should be sheepish or coy wandering the streets. This feeling follows on from our Indian escapade.. “Where are you from?” “England… Sorry”
Where did 15 days go?
(A) Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) (Saigon) ~ 4 days
(B) Hoi An ~ 4 days
(C) Hue ~ 2 days
(D) Hanoi ~ 1 days
(E) Halong Bay ~ 3 days
(F) Hanoi ~ 1 day (stayed near Noi Bai International airport)
Our route through VietDAYUM.
HCMC is famously the set of The Avengers and the Iron Man films, Stark Tower is right here. Ok that might not be true, but I did read that the helipad is useless because the pressure pulsations from the chopper rotors would damage the glass sides. Tony Stark would never have designed it like that.
I. AM. IRON. MAN. Bitexco Financial Tower
HCMC was really walkable for a pair of relatively fit 20-somethings.
Vietnam life: coconuts, The Notre Dame (Who’d have thunk?!) and an unusually good looking Post Office.
The War Remenents Museum was really interesting, sobering, shocking, harrowing, I’m sure there are more adjectives.
The War Remnants Museum in HCMC.
The Vietnam War is a topic I find pretty difficult to think critically about, there is so much biased information out there. The museum is no exception, but it’s nigh on impossible to ponder on the politics when such horrific images are on display.
Nothing much held back in the museum exhibitions.
One small thing I noticed, (US) documentaries would call North Vietnam “communists”, the museum referred to the North as “patriots”. There were other small differences but ignoring the history, it is incredibly sad, particularly the multi-generational impact dioxin exposure (Agent Orange) has had. Let’s all just get along!
Photos of victims of Agent Orange in the War Remnants museum.
The place is worth a visit, as were the Cu Chi tunnels where most Westerners are too large to get into the original sized holes!
Gangly man problems
On a lighter note, I had a huge amount of hyperinflated Dong. We got around 30,000 dong for each Pound, so we were Vietnamese millionaires. What a feeling to have so much Dong.
We were lazy and paid a tour company to take us to the Mekong Delta for what I envisaged as a quiet afternoon, gliding through narrow jungle lined waterways. In reality that happened for about 5 minutes, followed by countless opportunities for us to relinquish our Dong at a thousand different souvenir shops. Lesson learnt!
Enjoying our 5 min ride on the Mekong Delta.
With our 15 day allowance depleting, we flew to our next stop Hoi An (We flew to a place called Da Nang 30 minutes away, there is a dragon bridge there that breathes fire, but it’s no Clifton Suspension Bridge).
Hoi An was very romantic and picturesque after sunset, with visitors cruising down the river along with candles placed in lanterns that light up the evening.
The lanterns in Hoi An make for great snaps.
The western girl that was working at one of the bars berating us for not wanting to drink all we can in exchange for my Dong just didn’t fit in here. I will keep hold of my Dong, thank you Missy.
We stayed at a super swish, super cheap guesthouse very close to a quiet, sandy, long stretch of beach.
The beach near Hoi An – An Bang Beach. Looking back, it doesn’t get much better than this!
Maybe it’s just me but before this trip, sandy beaches didn’t spring to mind when I thought of Vietnam. We were travelling during monsoon season, so we were thankful that our pad was close to the beach when the apocalyptic sky launched relentless bullets of water. Only afternoons were affected and it was quite therapeutic taking in the sounds of the rain from a sheltered balcony.
Hey Dog, I’m no storm chaser but I reckon you’re going the wrong way pal.
We begrudgingly caught a bus to Hue next, pronounced like ‘Way to go’, or “hoo-way to go”, “which hoo-way?” Hue.
We’re living in the future, freaking buses with lying down seats, incredible.
I’m partial to an amber ale, and here there was a beer called “Kuda” which was the closest thing I’ve tasted in Asia so far to an amber ale. It was properly cheap too, so thankfully I could hang on to the majority of my Dong.
The citadel in Hoo-way is the star attraction, and for good reason. We spent most of the day roaming around. It reminded us of the Forbidden City in Beijing. In terms of old stuff that we have seen on our travels, this didn’t feel particularly old or historic and possibly took away from the experience slightly – but then I’m English, we have pubs older than time itself.
Another flight, (hang on we’re supposed to be budget backpackers??) this time to Hanoi, pronounced Hanoi. Another very walkable city, but the underground train system that was under construction whilst we were there would’ve been appreciated a couple of times, it was freaking hot.
The gate to the old quarter and a few photos from the exclusive Mansell’s Wondering Walking Tour. No insurance provided to cover death by motorbike.
Lots of sights to take in; the old quarter, Ba Dinh square, pagodas.. We had a great time absorbing it all.
Hanoi City. The guys at the bottom thought I was gangly Jesus.
Our favourite sight was the train track that runs disturbingly close to houses and shops through the centre of Hanoi. It was awesome/slightly stupid to stand next to when one of the two daily trains cruised by. I’m surprised the locals have never accidentally derailed the train before with the fires, leftover barrels and building material we saw on the tracks during the day.
“I walk the line”
Last but not least we took a trip around Halong Bay with a dreaded tour company argh! A significant chunk of my Dong was handed over for this magical trip.
No one can hear you scream.
Our lucky stars must’ve aligned that day, we were upgraded to a higher class cruise boat! Our room was easily more swish than 90% of places we’d stayed on dry land.
We spent our time cruising through the bay, kayaking around, walking to a view point and eating nicely presented food (I’m more of a big dirty burger kinda guy but sure, the food looked great)
The upgrade felt like Titanic for us, not the end bit of the film just the first half
Does an anti sweat filter exist? Sweaty mess at the Ti Top viewpoint
After snoozing onboard, we stayed on a private island south of Halong Bay, it was a pretty sweet set up. The highlight was partying with a group of vacationing Vietnamese medical workers. They were incredibly keen for us to drink their seemingly infinite supply of beer as quickly as possible with them.. who are we to say no?! It took me much longer than it should to realise the female company in the group were in fact “hired in help”! Thinking back, it’s hilarious how much fun we all had given that we barely understood one another.. the universal language of getting wasted on cheap lager I guess.
Halong Haloooong will I slide, separate my siiiiiiiiiide. Red Hot Chili Peppers famous song inspired by Halong Bay (Absolutely not true)
We ended our trip back in Hanoi with rooftop drinks joined by our new Portuguese friends Diana and Pedro.
The day after the night before!
We could easily write another blog on the grub during our trip. The Vietnamese cuisine features pretty high on my list of favourites, especially bún chả (pork ribs with noodles and greens paired up with crispy spring rolls nomnomnom).
The food gods were on my side in ‘Nam, I didn’t get ill at all (Delhi belly FU) and it was cheap and freaking delish
So after 15 days in ‘Nam, I have no more use for my Dong. I exchanged my Dong quite a bit for goods and services in Vietnam but there is still Dong in my pocket. If anyone is interested in buying the remains of my Dong don’t hesitate to get in touch so you too can have a wonderful time using my Dong in Vietnam!
One week is not nearly enough to cover Cambodia so we debated whether to go at all. However, we decided some time was better than nothing at all. Especially for the temples of Angkor Wat which we distinctly remember topping the ‘Ultimate Travelist’ by Lonely Planet. The temples of Angkor Wat are the largest religious monument in the world and date back to the 12th Century, that’s around 900 years ago.
We made our trip to Cambodia part of a shoestring loop from Bangkok, visiting Vietnam as well. It made for a nice 3-week tour around South East Asia before returning back to Thailand and heading south towards our final destination of Bali for our return flight home.
Our itinerary for Cambodia:
29th May – Bangkok (Thailand) to Siem Reap via bus – booked tickets online via Thai Ticket Major
4 days in (A) Siem Reap for Angkor Wat temple complex
2nd June -Siem Reap to Phnom Penh via Cambodia post bus booked through Cambo Ticket
3 days in (B) Phnom Penh
5th June – Phnom Penh to (C) Ho Chi Minh (Vietnam) via Kumho Samco bus booked through Cambo Ticket
Our route from Bangkok, through Cambodia and onward into Vietnam.
A little bit of useful travel info:
Currency: Cambodia uses US dollars which makes it very easy to get currency in advance and exchange any leftover.
Transport: Buses were certainly the easiest way to travel through Cambodia and were very easy to book online. Cambo ticket in particular shows a comparison of buses so you can pick your preferred choice. All the buses we booked were very efficient including the border crossings.
The Cambodian border.
Visas: For UK citizens, you need a visa for Cambodia which costs $30 (bring dollars with you) and you can get this at the border. You need 2 x passport photos (worst case they can do them for you there for an additional cost). We had read lots of stories about scams operating at the border and even the bus we were on dropped us off at an unofficial visa place. The people here immediately started to ask for our passports and passport photos. To be fair they were very efficient. However, they charged 1400 BAHT (about $41) and we could not pay in dollars so we immediately realised it wasn’t the official visa office. We paid it anyway as many other travellers were doing so. Once all the forms were prepared, we had to walk to the border to get our passport stamped and receive a departure card. We were a little sceptical that we were about to be charged again but in the end our visas did actually get processed very quickly. Quicker, in fact, than the few tourists who realised in time to go to the actual border to sort their visa out. For Vietnam, UK citizens can currently stay for 15 days visa free which is why we could take the bus – this option only works if you already have a visa or like us, you don’t need one. It’s better to fly if you need to get one.
Now for the good stuff, our actual experience…
Siem Reap & The Temples of Angkor Wat
We stayed at Villa Sweet Angkor Central, it was really cheap at £11 for both of us per night and our room even had two double beds! The hotel also had a small swimming pool which was great given we were nowhere near the sea.
Room to spread out in our accommodation in Siem Reap for only £11 a night!
Jonny doing his best seal impression in the pool.
It was a bit of a walk to Pub Street (the street is actually called ‘Pub Street’) which is where all the bars and a lot of restaurants are. This street was really good fun and beers were as cheap as $0.25!!
Pub Street in Siem Reap!
The next day we took it easy and had a wander around the town. We found a great bakery called Bloom Cafe which had the nicest coffee and cakes!
Beautifully presented coffee and yummy treats at Bloom cafe in Siem Reap.
For Angkor Wat, the temple complex is too big to walk around so you can either hire a tuk-tuk for the day, cycle or hire scooters/motorbikes. We found a place offering electric bikes which we thought might be fun (and more eco-friendly) costing $10 for 24-hours. The lady in the shop told us we could get tickets for Angkor Wat from 5pm the day before and see some temples that same evening. This worked out well as it made it easier for us to get to the temples for sunrise the next day which had been heavily recommended by everyone we met. As we rode to the ticket office, a monsoon from hell came down and we got absolutely soaked from head to toe. It was pretty hilarious walking up to the ticket counter leaving a puddle behind us.
The monstrous monsoon which came down whilst we were riding to the ticket office.
You can either get 1, 3 or 5 day tickets for the Angkor Temple complex. We decided on 1 day tickets and although we did not see everything on the site we felt it was enough for us – you can get a bit ‘templed’ out in the heat if not careful.
After we’d got our tickets, we decided to check out one of the temples that was open until 7.30pm, Pre Rup temple.
Testing the bikes out we went to see Pre Rup temple in the evening.
The way back was funny as we had to ride the bikes no more than 14 kph or risk the bike running out of charge and having to use the most ridiculous looking pedals! We made it back eventually haha.
After a quick shower, we went out for our first taste of Cambodian food at what became one of our favourite restaurants, Temple Design Bar, which was just a few streets back from Pub Street. We tried the Amok curry which was delicious.
Delicious amok curry & rice at Temple Design Bar. Not to mention the $1 beer 😉
Bright and early the next morning (a crazy 5.45am), we set off on our freshly charged bikes (we had to charge the batteries in our room overnight). We arrived at probably the most famous and well preserved temple, Angkor Wat, for sunrise. It was pretty spectacular, even if it was cloudy.
Angkor Wat bright and early.
Inside Angkor Wat Temple.
There was a monk giving prayers to tourists.
Monk blessing me (I think!).
We spent time looking around the temple and you could even go up one of the spire towers.
Around Angkor Wat temple.
Next we went to Bayon Temple which is known for the faces carved into the rock.
The faces carved into the rock at Bayon Temple.
Here, we witnessed the sun have a surreal ring around it which was really incredible.
Amazing rainbow ring around the sun above Bayon Temple… does it mean something perhaps?!
We had to stop to charge up the bikes, but used the time to have an early lunch. We tried Beef Lombok, another traditional Cambodian dish.
Cambodian Beef Lombok. To be honest, we preferred the Amok and Khmer Cambodian curries but it was still good!
Next we visited the main gates and a few more temples around the site.
The scale of the temple complex is difficult to comprehend until you are there! Even the butterfly in the photo needed a rest!
Ta Prohm temple (below) is famous for being used in the film Tomb Raider. It has trees literally growing through the temple walls.
Ta Prohm temple, best known for featuring in Tomb Raider.
Finally we watched Angkor Wat as the sun begin to set, before making our way back.
Angkor Wat as the sun was setting.
After a tiring day, we treated ourselves that evening to a BBQ plate on Pub Street and a few drinks after 🙂
Enjoying a big BBQ plate and beer after a long day at the temples.
For our final day in Siem Reap we decided to spend most of the day relaxing by the pool and having a bit of pampering. I got my nails done for $2 and we both had a fish foot massage with free beer!
Chill out and pamper day- Jonny loved getting his nails done 😉 The fish spa came with a free beer- result!
We had the best curries at Cambodia Tradional Chef – the fish Amok and beef Khmer curry were really good.
Fantastic Fish Amok curry (front) and Khmer curry (behind) 😊
Phnom Penh, S-21 & The Killing Fields (not the nicest title I’ll admit)
The bus to Phnom Penh was again very simple. It was a small minibus which departed from the main post office. The bus stopped for a break on the 6 hour journey at a beautiful location.
We have no idea where this was as the bus stopped us here for a break on the way to Phnom Penh, but isn’t it beautiful?
Sitting on the bus for so long enabled us to catch up with House of Cards on Netflix 😉 We also met fellow travellers Don and Adam on the bus, and decided to meet the next day to go to S-21 Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and the Killing Fields. If you haven’t heard of the Khmer Rouge regime or the history around this, I urge you to read up on it. It’s likened to the Holocaust. We didn’t take many photos of these places as they were extremely harrowing. I’d certainly recommend a visit and the audio guide was well-done.
The terrifying rules as S-21 prison, a former school, used during the Khmer Rouge regime. One of the rules reads ‘Whilst getting lashes or electrification, you must not cry at all’.
On the left is S-21 prison and on the right is the memorial for those that lost their lives at the Killing Fields.
That afternoon, we needed something much lighter so we did what many Brits do and went to the pub. We were still with Don and Adam and enjoyed a few rounds of pool, some drinking games and a lot of beer together!
A bit of light relief after the horrific stories from Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and the Killing Fields.
Sensibly realising we needed to sober up, we decided a Khmer massage would be the best approach. The massage though, was actually really good and involved a lot of stretching (or the beer helped to mask the pain…).
Our accommodation (Longlin House) was in an area equivalent of pub street in Siem Reap. It was great for restaurants but it was a little seedy with many prostitutes outside the bars. We did find one great restaurant called Kabbas Restaurant which had really good Cambodian curries.
More Cambodian curry. Literally couldn’t get enough of this yummy stuff!
Our final day in Phnom Penh was spent wandering around the Royal Palace (it was closed so we didn’t go inside), the river, central market and the National Museum of Cambodia (personally we didn’t feel the museum was worth the $5 entrance fee).
A day in Phnom Penh.
We had a late lunch at David’s Handmade Noodes restaurant but the handmade dumplings were even better!
Handmade noodles and dumplings made right in front of us at David’s in Phnom Penh.
Then it was on to Ho Chi Minh city or Saigon in Vietnam. We were pretty chuffed when the seats we’d booked had extra leg room!
Happy travellers leaving one great country to another!
So there you have it; both breathtaking and unforgettable experiences, the tastiest food, good company and lots of fun. Safe to say we enjoyed our 1-week visit to Cambodia!
We arrived in Delhi on 7th May 2017. I guess because South India is closer to the equator, we expected the north of India to be less hot, if not the same. How foolish.
At midday, Delhi and the surrounding area got to between 40-46 degrees celsius. So our schedule had to fit around what we thought we could realistically manage in the heat. We prioritised the Taj Mahal (obviously), seeing a Benghal Tiger (we’d not managed to see one in Periyar National Park in Kerala) and the three Rajasthan cities of Jaipur, Jodhpur and Jaisalmer. The three places that make up the classic ‘Golden Triangle’ of India consist of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur. Our itinerary looked like this:
A) Agra (for Taj Mahal) – 1 night
B) Jaipur – 3 nights
C) Ranthambore (for the National Park) – 2 nights
D) Jodhpur – 2 nights
E) Jaisalmer – 4 nights
F) Delhi – 2 nights
This portion of our trip was characterised by beautiful forts, palaces and desert land.
The best way to take long distances in this region is by train. Getting to Agra from Delhi would be much better if you purchased tickets in advance. We had tried using the website but the registration did not go through in time so if you plan to use the trains in India make sure you do this well in advance. This blog is amazing at spelling out the various train classes and how to book tickets.
Arriving at New Delhi train station was certainly an experience with lots of Indians sitting or sleeping on the floor, various different queues for the ticket office, beggars and lots and lots of touts. At the time I was too frazzled to take a photo but I found this blog which provides some pretty accurate photos!
Unfortunately, we weren’t entirely sure where to buy our tickets. A friendly staff member told us the next train to Agra was in two hours and we had to go to another building to purchase tourist tickets. Being none the wiser to the scam being played on us, off we went to this other building to get train tickets only to be told there were no trains available. This was when we realised something phishy was going on and quickly made our way back to the train station. As we entered the station, a train Security Officer asked to see our tickets. Since we didn’t have any he said we could not enter the station and must walk down the street to the ‘tourist train reservation office’. He was quite authoritative, even showing us his ID, and began escorting us down the road. We were naturally skeptical from the last scam. Thankfully, a foreigner happened to be walking down the street and told us quietly the tourist office was inside the main train station on the 1st floor. We immediately turned on our heel and marched back to the station, ignoring everyone until we got into the station. Eventually we found the tourist office which was very busy. There was a ticketing system and after a further painful two hour wait we finally had all our train tickets.
The train to Agra was pleasant enough, lasting about three and a half hours. We sat in the air-conditioned 3rd tier class (there are eight classes in total) and spoke to an Indian family along the way.
Our hotel, Sai Palace, was pretty impressive in terms of location and price for £11 per night! You could even see the silhouette of the famous Taj Mahal from the rooftop restaurant.
Very early the next morning we walked to the Taj Mahal for sunrise to beat the crowds and the heat. It was truly spectacular.
We ate breakfast back at the hotel and also managed to check out Agra Fort before catching the train to Jaipur.
This train ride was really comfortable in the air-conditioned chair class and we were even given food!
We arrived at our hotel Pandya Niwas about 10pm. The room was really modern and the staff friendly. The next morning I realised I had left my sunglasses in the hotel in Agra- oops. The hotel confirmed they had them but they would not post, only collect them in person. If these had been a cheap pair of sunglasses I would not have been bothered but Jonny had bought them for our honeymoon. So our first morning in Jaipur was spent booking train tickets back to Agra for the following day. We had a late breakfast and spent the rest of the day meandering through the streets. We saw Hawa Mahal at dusk, a high-walled palace built for the Royal women to watch the streetlife. We ate at a rooftop restaurant which overlooked Hawa Mahal.
The next day we caught the first train back to Agra. Fortunately, I retrieved my sunglasses and not wanting to waste the day, we took a look around the other sights of Agra including the Tomb of I’timād-ud-Daula often referred to as the ‘Baby Taj’, the Jama Mosque (built in the 1600s) and the Mehtab Bagh gardens with a view of the Taj Mahal from across the river.
We also decided to spoil ourselves with a great Bon Barbecue lunch.
In the evening we travelled back to Jaipur. Jaipur is the capital of the Rajasthan state and is called the ‘pink city’ because the buildings were painted pink for a royal visit from Queen Victoria in 1876. The main sights are the City Palace, Jantar Mantar (an astronomical observation site built in the early 18th century) and Amer Fort. We managed to do all of these in one day.
Amer Fort is located 11km from Jaipur whereas the City Palace and Jantat Mantar are centrally located. Amer Fort was certainly worth the visit and made for some impressive views.
Talking food for a moment, we found a very authentic small street food vendor that many locals ate at. We were served a 50p meal consisting of chickpea curry and poori bread or rice – and if you weren’t full from your first plate they would keep on serving.
Ganeshi, a small restaurant recommended in lonely planet I believe, had really friendly staff and you could watch them cook your meal. It’s quite hard to spot though as the entrance is in between shops. The food was yummy and very cheap.
Another of our favourite restaurants in Jaipur was Natraj, the peshwari naan and potato bomb curry were the best! This time, I gobbled it all up without taking a photo.
On our last day in Jaipur, we decided to do something a little different. We’d heard there were elephant sanctuaries in the area but were slightly sceptical of how well the elephants were treated. After some research we decided to visit Elephant Joy. When we arrived we were greeted with three elephants: Rangoli, Moti and Gori. It was a relief to see they were not in chains and free to wander. The owner explained how Rangoli was rescued from a circus and Gori was an orphan. We fed and washed the elephants which was really fun.
We were also able to ride Moti bareback (because the wooden boxes hurt the elephants). The owner was also keen to ensure we weren’t too heavy for the elephant . To be honest although the ride was an experience, we both felt bad riding it. I know people ride horses and camels but an elephant just felt wrong somehow.
On the plus side, the elephants seemed to be treated really well and had vet care every month. They certainly seemed to enjoy being fed and washed! Overall, we had a really fun experience and it was amazing to be so intimate with these huge creatures.
Our next stop was Ranthambore for the Tiger Reserve. We really wanted to spot a wild Bengal tiger. We took the first train and arrived by lunchtime. In the afternoon, we managed to secure a safari after a lot of waiting and patience. The ticket office was home to a lot of touts and a long line. Someone said to Jonny “if you wait they will not come to you, you have to shout to be seen!“. By 3pm, we were in a jeep racing towards Ranthambore National Park. When I say racing, this was no word of a lie – the driver did not slow down for anything: herds of goats, pot-holes, bumps, bends and even the wildlife (which was the point of the Safari). We were bouncing around all over the place in the back of the jeep, it may as well have been a bouncy castle! It was also ridiculously hot with no shade so we bought emergency rags at the side of the road.
Amazingly, we did actually spot two tigers up close! Other wildlife we spotted were birds including kingfishers and peacocks, samba deer and monkeys. I just about managed to take photos whilst the driver raced on.
After a restful second day in Ranthambore town, we caught two trains to Jodhpur. We had a 2 hour wait in Jaipur so took a taxi to the Peacock rooftop cafe for breakfast. This place was really nice and relaxing.
The train ride took up the whole day and we arrived late to our homestay Suraj Haveli. We were welcomed by a lovely family. The Mum made us Thali which we ate with beer on the rooftop with an impressive view of Mehrangarh Fort.
The next morning, the family prepared a special breakfast with sweets because it was Jonny’s birthday. He even got a garland and a tikka on his forehead!
The Mehrangarh Fort was very impressive, followed by a visit to the Clock Tower in the middle of Sardar Market.
Cafe Royal was a little gem tucked into the little shops surrounding the market with a great view of the clock tower. The owners were really sweet and lent Jonny their guitar for a bit.
Around 5 o’clock in the afternoon, a friend of the homestay took us on a walking tour of Jodhpur. It was a very personal tour as he showed us his school and home, as well as a step well and some temples. Jodhpur is known as the blue city and it’s easy to see why.
Dinner was at On the Rocks- a restaurant complex with lots of choice and an actual bar (this was the first bar we’d come across in India with alcohol advertised).
On the way back there was a sandstorm from hell and we had to remain in the fetal position in the tuk-tuk!
To get to Jaisalmer we had to get up at 4am and arrived by train around midday.
The hotel we stayed in was the best yet- it was actually part of the Lal Garh fort wall. The balcony was awesome and we easily lost a good few hours sitting out watching the world go by.
The breakfasts were great too – banana and honey pancakes with chai tea on a rooftop with a view!
Jaisalmer is not too far from the Pakistan border and located very close to the Thar desert. The average temperature was 44-47 degrees celsius which limited the amount we could do in the day. The sights of Jaisalmer include a lake, the fort palace and the desert.
To get a break from curry, we found a fun cafe called ‘Cafe +’ which served western food and had lots of space to chill out.
We took a overnight trip into the desert which involved visiting a deserted village, an hour camel ride and sleeping out under the stars.
It was low season in Jaisalmer – there aren’t many tourists silly enough to come here in the heat. It worked in our favour though as we got really good deals on accommodation and for the desert tour it was just the two of us plus our guide so felt very much like a private tour.
After the camel ride, our guide cooked us dinner on an open fire.
Camping consisted of sleeping on a bed exposed to the elements. It’s difficult to put into words how surreal this was – we were in the middle of the desert, no signs of civilisation for miles, no toilet, no huts – just us, a campfire and some beds! The stars did look incredible though.
We were right next to a giant sand dune which was hilariously hard to walk on, particularly in the dark. You’d fall about everywhere and sand filled up your shoes instantly.
The next morning we had breakfast and then messed around with some fun ninja moves on the sand dunes.
On the way back I rode the camel myself which was both terrifying and satisfying. I survived nevertheless.
When we got back to Jaisalmer, feeling brave we thought we’d try something else pretty random – driving a tuk tuk! A friendly driver taught us how to operate the gears, clutch etc and then let us have a go! It was brilliant. We couldn’t stop laughing!
The next day we had an 18-hour train ride back to Delhi. We decided to fork out the extra money and get first class (which essentially means you pay for space). It was worth it because we actually got a decent night’s sleep.
In Delhi we stayed near the train station which had a good atmosphere and there were lots of restaurants. We saw the Jama Masjid, one of the largest mosques in India, but we didn’t stay too long as before we knew it we had a queue of Indians wanting selfies with us.
The Red Fort nearby was closed so we wandered back through the streets full of people on the streets selling food, clothes or drinks. Some of the streets were pretty run down with lots cables dangling between buildings.
For our last night in India, we decided to stay somewhere nice and booked the Marriott in Gurugram, 30-minutes from the airport. The hotel had a pool and gym so we spent some time there and in the evening they had a drinks reception and food in the Executive Lounge (something I had access to with all my travel with IBM). My first glass of wine in a month! We went to bed feeling very satisfied.
Annoyingly, at 4am I woke up feeling completely shit. I threw up all morning. We’d done quite well to not get a serious dose of Delhi belly throughout our trip so getting so sick right at the end of our trip and at a nice hotel was a shame. In fact, I was so poorly we missed our flight to Bangkok but the Marriott were good and let us stay an extra night for free.
Needless to say, our time in India had its ups and downs- it is busy and chaotic, sometimes things don’t make sense and you can’t miss poverty. Yet on the other hand, there is such beautiful scenery, wonders of the world, fantastic forts and palaces and amazing wildlife. Overall, we’re really glad we went!
Next stop Bangkok followed by a trip to Cambodia and Vietnam 😊
You can read our other posts about travel in India here: